This month the spotlight at work is Climate & Sustainability. The more I look into sustainability, the more complicated it becomes. There are carbon emissions, energy use, water consumption, waste, transport and packaging to consider – and every decision affects another part of the supply chain. That’s why I prefer to use the term stewardship – because it is the careful and responsible management of all resources entrusted into our care. So, let’s look at some of those challenges:
Is glass always more sustainable than plastic?
Glass uses a lot of energy to manufacture, and because it is heavy, and it is expensive to transport. It can be put out for kerbside recycling, if it is not too small. In addition to recycling, you can reuse it or repurpose it, and some brands like Aleph Beauty offer a return program to recirculate their product packaging. Returned packaging still needs to be cleaned and sanitised and may still require new lids/seals.
Conventional plastic is generally made from fossil-fuel-derived petrochemicals; it is cheaper, lighter and depending on the type it can be recycled. Unlike glass, plastic generally cannot be recycled indefinitely. Mechanical recycling can degrade the polymer over repeated cycles, eventually limiting its suitability for some applications. Not all types of plastic are recyclable in New Zealand and even for those that are, for example lids, are not able to be disposed of in kerbside recycling.
Is recyclable packaging actually recycled?
Recycling also has an economic and logistical reality behind it. Waste has to be collected, sorted, transported and processed somewhere, and that infrastructure isn't available for every material in New Zealand. For example, a serum pump is likely to be made of mixed plastic grades and may contain a metal spring, therefore it cannot go into kerbside recycling in New Zealand. Many soft plastics can be recycled at participating outlets, but it can be confusing for the consumer to know if that particular soft plastic can be recycled locally – especially if the product originated overseas. A recycling symbol on the packaging doesn't necessarily mean that our local recycling system accepts it.
Is refillable beauty packaging always better?
There are two forms of refills to consider – refill pods/pouches that you buy or by going to a refill station. It can be better, however there are other considerations. Refill pods/pouches will most likely be lighter but may have foil tops or plastic lids. Will the internal container be recyclable? Some brands like Ecostore offer refill stations, but that doesn’t work for all types of products. Then there is the question of contamination. If consumers are expected to clean their own containers, how confident can brands be that they have been cleaned thoroughly? Pumps in particular can be surprisingly difficult to clean, with product trapped inside components that are almost impossible to access.
Does “natural” mean sustainable?
Not always. What if the ingredient involved child or forced labour? Or if harvesting it threatens the species itself or the surrounding environment? Sometimes, a nature-identical version of an ingredient can actually be the more responsible choice when the natural resource is scarce or unsustainable, or for stability issues.
Are botanical ingredients automatically better for the environment?
"Natural" tells you where something came from, not necessarily what happens to it after processing, use or disposal. For example, the safety data sheet may indicate that expired ingredients are toxic to aquatic organisms, in which case you cannot empty them down the drain. Just as you shouldn’t tip leftover cooking oil down the sink. Tapioca starch is a good case in point, it can have significant environmental impacts including water usage, energy consumption and waste generation.
What does “upcycled” mean in skincare?
“Upcycled” refers to ingredients that might be discarded as a byproduct of another process. Take hydrosols for example, they are the water recovered through the distillation process used to extract certain essential oils. Tomato seed oil is derived from tomato seeds that would normally be discarded during tomato sauce manufacturing process. This is something I actively looked for in ingredients for Tatawai formulations.
Does buying local make beauty more sustainable?
It can — but local isn't automatically lower impact. That’s because there is a difference between environmental sustainability and economic/social sustainability.
A locally produced product may support local employment and keep economic value within the community, but that doesn't automatically mean it has the lowest carbon footprint.
Sustainable practices in the beauty industry extend beyond the traditional environmental viewpoints. Fostering relationships with organisations such as Te Whare Owhero — something I do as a Hope Champion — a conscious decision to lift up others within our community is just as important to me.
Why is sustainable packaging so difficult for small beauty brands?
The simple answer is cost. I have spent days if not weeks on Alibaba looking for options. And I have genuinely found beautiful packaging that is recyclable and fun. However, in the end I either cannot afford the MOQ’s or I cannot afford the freight costs and possible import costs/hassles at this point in time. Similarly, I’ve tried to source products locally within New Zealand, but I can’t commit to MOQ of 10,000 units, or the unit prices are too high. So I have opted for glass, done my best to limit courier costs and made an extra effort with QR Codes to explain the recycling method for each product.
Then there are the certifications – they are also expensive, rigorous (as they should be) and need to be renewed. Then there are annual fees for the privilege using the logo. It can be expensive to change your formulation to be classified as COSMOS/NATRUE approved, or as Organic and there is a substantial amount of supply chain documentation involved. I would really like to be B Corp Certified, but I have to be trading for a minimum of 12 months before I can even apply. Consumers quite reasonably want small brands to make sustainable choices. But small brands often don't have the purchasing power, infrastructure or cash flow to access the same solutions as large brands. Sometimes the more sustainable option isn't economically viable for a small business yet. That is disheartening.
Can a beauty product ever be truly zero waste?
Maybe, but that doesn’t mean we stop trying and some brands are making substantial strides in this area like Emma Lewisham. I’m not chasing the perfect product. I'm making the best call I can with what's actually available to me as a small New Zealand brand right now.